04.10.2011 - 16.10.2011
SO, we went to Railay with the intentions of detoxing. However, it rained constantly, and all there is to do on railay is rock-climb or go on a snorkel trip. Because of the rain, we couldn't do either, so we just ate and drank.
We got bored of that, and I left the girls to go to ko phi phi. Luckily, the weather improved drastically and I had about 5 days of sunshine, punctuated by the occasional short shower of rain. I went on a couple of snorkelling boat trips, to Maya bay, where they filmed the beach, and to bamboo island (stopping off at various points on each trip, having dinner on the boat in a bay as we watched the sun set, and on the second trip, cliff jumping). Phi Phi is jsut as beautiful as pangnan, except so much smaller. You can walk from one side of the island to the other in 5mins, and the entire thing is the most shameless example of Thai tourism ever. The vast majority of the people that live and work there are westerners, the entire town is just dive shops, bars, guesthouses...
But I had a good time anyway. There was a bar called reggae bar, which had a muay thai ring in the middle. There were fights at the beginning of the night, then after they finished they let the tourists into the ring to fight to win a free bucket. My friends convinced me it would be a good idea, so I ended up beating a french guy with a massive beard, providing our table with a sangsom bucket. I decided to share the bucket, because I had only signed up for a "quiet night", which soon turned into another all-nighter.
there was a bar on Phi Phi (aptly named "rolling stoned"), which had a live band who played classic rock covers all night. They soon started recognising us, and playing our requests. They were quite good, and could actually sing the lyrics properly (a first in my experience of thai cover bands)!
It was around this time that I decided to stop drinking M150. One night I didnt have any, and I got pretty bad withdrawal symptoms the next day - the shakes, cold sweats, heart palpitations... so I knocked that one on the head and haven't had any since.
My intentions were to go from Phi Phi to Langkawi and continue my journey into Malaysia. However, I heard the weather there was absolutely abismal, and didn't want my memory, of what was going to be a highlight of the journey, be jaded by bad weather. So I decided to go back to ko pagnan, and go to the full moon party that I actually regretted avoiding. A huge backtrack! I met roz at her bungalows in pangnan, and a load of people I'd met travelling were going to the party too, plus a few friends from back home. Also, the weather was better in the gulf of thailand and i was getting bored of rain-dodging.
I can't remember the full moon party, but I know i had a good time. IT was jsut what I expected - huge crowds of drunk chavs. Not really my thing but you learn to make the most of any situation, so I still enjoyed myself. Finished off the party at dawn, watching the sun rise over the beach, sipping another special happy mushroom shake... stunning.
We then watched two of our friends each pay 3000baht to get a tattoo of a lump of cheese on their ribs... I doubt they're the first people to get a stupid tattoo at 10am on ko pangnan...